STATEN ISLAND, N.Y. — Under normal circumstances, paw-paws start dropping — literally — in New York right about now. But the massive amounts of rain have put a crimp in the 2021 growing season for these tropical-looking fruits that are uniquely indigenous to America.
Some fun stuff of on this fall-ish topic: Meriwether Lewis and William Clark survived on paw-paws as they traveled through the Northeast in the early 1800s. Thomas Jefferson cultivated the papaya-ish like things at Monticello. They grow wild on Staten Island in the Greenbelt and can be cultivated at home. And, the plants can grow to over 20 feet with a solid root system — quite a sight in autumn sunlight with its leaves turned gold, green and rust.
A paw-paw tree in fall at Rabbits Run Farm in Pennsylvania. (Courtesy of Dan Torrison)
Anne Young of Stapleton reports on the status of her front yard tree as of Sept. 9. She said, “Two paw-paws are ripe right now. But the smaller ones are falling off the tree because of all the rain. It’s so dependent upon what the weather brings.”
She added, “By the time figs are ripening, the paw-paws are pretty much ready.”
Compare this year’s sparse showing to la 2020 harvest when the Young’s reaped a bumper crop. Ann made a lot of ice cream out of it. Heavy cream, she notes, has a natural affinity with the orange-forward flesh of the paw-paw. Add sugar and vanilla for a dessert that tastes similar to an orange creamsicle.
Paw-paw zabaglione by chef Mario DiBiase, a former Great Kills resident and chef/owner of Brooklyn's' Sotto Voce. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)(Staten Island Advance/Pamela Si
Fruits can be eaten raw — use a spoon to scoop out the flesh — and folded into desserts like bread pudding or used instead of ripe banana in recipes. They can be the centerpiece of zabaglione, as Chef Mario Di Biase might whip up in peak paw-paw season at his Brooklyn restaurant, Sotto Voce.
The large paw-paw seeds can be planted or discarded; they are not edible.
WHAT DOES THE paw-paw TASTE LIKE?
Paw paws have a fantastical flavor thanks to a sweet, creamy flesh that smacks of apple blossoms, cotton candy and tangerine. One might liken the taste to an orange Pez with its lingering sugar-on-fruit finish on the palate.
The flesh of the paw-paw tastes like cotton candy mingled with an orang Pez and has a creamy texture. Seeds are inedible. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri) Staff-Shot
Paw-paw growers like Danny Gentile of Tottenville have a deep appreciation for the fruit. Like figs, the cultivated trees may carry pedigrees.
WHAT’S THAT ROTTEN MEAT SMELL?
Later in September and in early October, the fruits can be found at the Saturday St. George Greenmarket, specifically from the Rabbits Run Farm stand. Pennsylvania grower Dan Torrison explained the life cycle of the plant.
A paw-paw patch blooms in spring with flowers that smell like rotting meat. (Courtesy of Dan Torrison)
He said, “Paw-paws trees do best as an understory tree when they are young. They flower in May with dark brown upside down cup shaped flowers. The flowers give off a slightly rotten meat smell to attract flies for pollination.”
Torrison added, “Some growers actually hand rotting meat sachets in the trees to help with pollination.”
He describes the fruits as clusters that look like five tiny bananas when young.
“As the fruit matures the tree looks like it is bearing potatoes. The fruit is ripe when it falls freely from the tree during early autumn,” said Torrison. In their young state, they need little care other than some shade.
Paw-paws turn black when frozen. (Staten Island Advance File Photo)Staff-Shot
The farmer offered, “But once they are established at five- or six-years old, the shade is no longer necessary. They are very long-lived, usually producing fruit at about four or five years old and on into old age.”
When frozen, paw-paws turn black, as do bananas. They’re not easily found in supermarkets as they’re highly perishable. As the children’s song of yesteryear goes, “Pickin’ up paw paws, put ‘em in your pocket” the unique treats can be found naturally “way down yonder in the paw paw patch.”
Pamela Silvestri is Advance Food Editor. She can be reached at silvestri@siadvance.com.
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