With the fires and the pandemic, there’s not much to feel good about much these days. But what I cling to is all the sweet juicy fruit in season.
The farmers markets are pretty quiet now and they don’t let you touch the fruit during the pandemic, but you can get some great produce and there is plenty of fruit waiting for you.
This recipe is part crème brûlée, part sabayon — hence the name. You can make this dessert year-round. It is spectacular in the winter served warm straight from the oven. Or you can cool it, refrigerate it and serve it later. Either way, you will find yourself making this versatile recipe throughout the year.
Crème fraîche lightens up the custard and the choice of fruit is up to you. This time, I used raspberries and blackberries, but raspberries also combine wonderfully with figs or peaches.
Claudia Alexander has been happily cooking for friends and family for more than three decades. Owner of Marin Walkies, a dog walking business, she has a bi-weekly food blog, sweetbynurture.com. Contact her at sweetbynurture@gmail.com
RECIPE
Raspberry blackberry crème bayon
Makes 6 servings
1 1/3 cups milk (I used 1%, but use what you have)
3 egg yolks, beaten
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1/3 cup sugar, plus extra to sprinkle on top
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
¼ teaspoon sea salt
1 cup crème fraîche
1½ cups each of raspberries and blackberries
6 ramekins (1 cup each) or one oval baking dish
In a 1-quart bowl, whisk together sugar and cornstarch. Beat in the egg yolks until the mixture is light yellow and completely incorporated. In a small saucepan, warm the milk over low heat until you see small bubbles around the edges. Keep an eye on it; you will want it just under scalding — not burning on the bottom.
Turn off the heat and let it rest a minute and then slowly whisk the milk into the egg yolk mixture. Whisk it all briskly and return it to the saucepan. Cook it over low heat using a spatula, so that you can reach the edges of the pan, leaving nothing to stick on the bottom. Slowly, the mixture will thicken to the consistency of mayonnaise.
Take it off the heat and add the butter and salt. Pour the custard into a dish and cover with plastic wrap so that the wrap touches the custard. This prevents it from developing a skin. Put it in the fridge to cool for about an hour. Once cool, stir in the crème fraîche.
If using ramekins, place some berries on the bottom of the cup, about one-third full. Top with cooled custard and some remaining berries, then sprinkle the entire top with sugar. If you use a baking dish, place 2 cups of berries on the bottom. Cover with all of the custard and remaining berries and sprinkle the top with sugar.
With your oven rack on the second rung from the top, turn on your broiler. Place your dish or ramekins on a baking sheet and into the oven for about 5 minutes.
You can eat this dessert right away or refrigerate it until the top hardens in about one to two hours or overnight.
— Adapted from Suzanne Goin’s “Sunday Suppers at Lucques”
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