Raspberry jam, mango, grapefruit, watermelon, coconut, pineapple.
Years ago, few imagined such fruits and many other adjuncts would find their way into today’s beers. Some industry experts believe breweries, however, have gone too far with fruit beers and need to pay more attention to traditional styles. Brewers are having none of it.
“That’s nonsense,” says Jeppe Jarnit-Bjergsø, the founder of New York-based Evil Twin Brewing. “We do a lot of traditional-style beers, but that shouldn't be the only thing. There are so many breweries, and, if everyone made the same, it would be boring. Can you imagine all restaurants only doing traditional-style food? I love making the fruited sours, and I love experimenting with fruit in combination with other ingredients!”
Mark Bjornstad, the co-founder and president of Drekker Brewing Company in Fargo, North Dakota, agrees.
“Who said you can’t have classic beers if we also make new and innovative styles?” he asks. “It’s not a zero-sum game; you can have both. Gatekeeping like that is futile and stifles progress and creativity. We’re driven to innovate and push boundaries to create the next beer experience, but we also love brewing traditional styles.”
Kevin Petrie, a senior writer at Tavour, which sells many breweries’ products online, recalls similar criticism about IPAs in the past.
“I remember people saying the same thing about West Coast IPAs in the 2010s when breweries were competing to see who could make the most heavily hopped, super-resinous palate wrecker,” Petrie says. “They said: Too much hops, they’ve forgotten what beer is all about, it’s a travesty! It’s nonsense. At the end of the day, beer experts don’t drive the market — consumers do. As long as people continue to enjoy these heavily fruited beers, brewers will keep making them. And rightfully so.”
Gose and Berliner weisse were rarely seen styles until recently, Petrie says, “and now they’re back with a vengeance largely because they work so well with fruited additions.” So, he says. “two centuries-old traditional styles have become much better known as a direct result of the fruit trend.”
New Jersey-based Montclair Brewery will sell at least seven different fruit beers this month. Raspberry holiday jam ale, made with homemade raspberry jam, is the favorite of Denise Ford Sawadogo, the brewery’s co-owner and general manager. “It’s well-balanced and sweet — but not too sweet — and finishes nice and clean,” she says.
Sawadodo’s other favorite fruit beer was Montclair’s limited run of La Tisane Calamansi Pilsner, a crisp Czech-style pilsner with calamansi fruit.
“Calamansi limes are a cross between a lemon, a tangerine and a kumquat and a balance of slightly sour and slightly sweet,” she explains. “This beer contained both of my favorite flavor profiles and didn’t go overboard in either direction. And I learned about a fruit that I had never heard of before.”
Jarnit-Bjergsø says Fructus Danica 4 — Blueberry, Raspberry, Buddhas Hand is the favorite fruit beer he has brewed.
“Buddha’s-hand is rarely used in beer,” he says. “But it is the most aromatic and fragrant citrus I have ever used, and I loved it!”
Asked to identify the most “outlandish” fruit beer they have drunk, Bjornstad and Jarnit-Bjergsø point to the same one: Double Carrot Cake J.R.E.A.M., brewed by the Burley Oak Brewing Company in Berlin, Maryland.
“It’s not truly fruit, but Carrot Cake J.R.E.A.M. from Burley Oak absolutely blew my mind,” says Bjornstad, who plans to debut up to 10 fruit beers this month at his North Dakota brewery. ”I thought they perfectly executed the flavor experience for carrot cake.”
Burley Oak’s beer was the first one with carrots ever tasted by Jarnit-Bjergsø. “It was unique and special, but I loved it,” he exclaims.
Petrie says it’s difficult to name the most outlandish fruit beer he has consumed, but then he remembers one.
“Technically, cucumbers are fruit, which makes Best Maid Sour Pickle Beer from Martin House (a Fort Worth, Texas, brewery) a fruited sour,” he says. “And it’s pretty dang weird. People love it, though. It actually tastes like a sip from the pickle jar.”
Petrie also mentions Evil Twin’s Dumb Fruit 10 which contains passion fruit, prickly pear, pomelo, and Sour Power passion fruit candy straws. “It really tasted like fruity sour candy,” he remarks.
Colorado’s WeldWerks Brewing Company brewed an excellent fruit beer named Mixed Berry Pie, Petrie says. “They put a bunch of actual pie crusts in the mash to make it, along with a ton of berries, graham crackers and vanilla.”
Are there any fruits that simply do not belong in a beer?
“Nope,” Jarnit-Bjergsø responds before demurring. “Maybe durian, but, then again, I would love to see if we could make that work as well.”
Petrie expresses some doubts about avocado in beer.
“Avocado is a weird one, but I know it’s been done,” he says “I haven’t tried one, though. Honestly, I think there’s room in the industry to experiment with just about anything. Martin House made a beer with Flamin’ Hot Cheetos last year. Evil Twin once made a brew with whole frozen pizzas and another with Mountain Dew syrup. At this point, nothing is off-limits.”
“The possibilities,” Sawadogo says, “are endless. “Why limit ourselves? Instead, challenge our taste buds!”
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Fruit Beer Recipes Seem Endless: Mangos, Carrots, Raspberry Jam - Forbes
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