Home-made blackberry ice cream.
In summer and fall, I like to follow the fruit, making ice cream with different fruits as the seasons move along.
I start with strawberries, on through cherries and apricots to blackberries and peaches, plums and figs, and finally quince.
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From summer you can take ice cream into fall, making pistachio, persimmon, pumpkin and walnut versions, even herbal ones – and of course, chocolate is good for any time.
There are so many possibilities. And, once you have your freezer full of your special ice creams, you can create treats like ice cream sandwiches, ice cream crepes, ice cream sodas, even old-fashioned ice cream banana splits.
I learned about homemade ice cream as a child, taking turns with friends on an old-fashioned bucket and hand crank ice cream maker, heaped with salt and ice. My current ice cream maker is the same old-fashioned wooden bucket style, minus the crank. This White Mountain Ice cream maker I use is electric, and every bit as much fun, but less work than the crank model – which is still available. Of course, today there are myriad home ice cream makers.
Regardless of what type of ice cream maker you have, there’s nothing quite like homemade ice cream, full of the intense flavors of summer fruit. Once I’ve made my ice cream, any we don’t eat immediately, I pack it into quart-size containers and store it in the freezer.
Strawberry Ice Cream
Adapted from White Mountain Ice Cream Maker Owner’s Manual
Makes 4 quarts
This is a super simple ice cream to make. The filling needs to be chilled before freezing the ice cream maker, so allow extra time for that.
4 cups strawberries
3 cups whole milk
1 ¾ cups sugar
½ teaspoon salt
2 cups half and half
3 cups heavy (whipping) cream
Stem the strawberries and puree them in a food processor or blender. Set aside.
In a saucepan over medium-high heat, scald the milk just until you see small bubbles starting to form along the edge. Remove from the heat and stir in the sugar and salt until dissolved. Stir in the half and half and the heavy cream. Stir in the pureed strawberries. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes or up to several hours. Transfer to an ice cream maker and follow the manufacturer’s freezing directions.
Blackberry Ice Cream
Not only is the ice cream tasty, but the deep color is striking.
To make this ice cream, follow the recipe above for Strawberry Ice Cream.
Makes 4 quarts.
Honey-Quince Ice Cream
The quince imparts an unusual rose-amber color to this custard-based ice cream. The fruit, which is poached in a vanilla-lemon syrup before being pureed, gives the ice cream a rich, citrus-honey flavor that will surprise and delight you and your guests.
4 or 5 large quinces
4 cups granulated sugar
2 cups water
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 cups heavy cream
2 cups milk
1/3 cup mild liquid honey, such as clover or acacia
½ cup firmly packed brown sugar
¼ teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
Peel and core the quinces. Cut the fruits into large chunks and set them aside.
Combine the granulated sugar, water, vanilla bean, and lemon juice in a large saucepan. Over medium-high heat, bring to a boil and continue to boil, stirring often, until a light to medium thick syrup forms, about 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and add the quince. Poach the fruits until just barely tender when pierced with the tines of a fork, about 15 minutes.
Using a slotted spoon, remove the quince pieces from the syrup from the pan and put them in a colander to drain. Discard the syrup or reserve for another use. Set aside ½ cup of the quince pieces and puree the remainder in a food processor or blender. You should have about 4 cups.
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, over medium-high heat, combine the cream, milk, honey, brown sugar, and salt. Bring to just below a boil, stirring until the sugar has dissolved.
Meanwhile, in a bowl, whisk together the egg yolks until they are lemon-colored. Slowly whisk about 1 cup of the hot milk mixture into the yolks. Now, whisk the hot yolk mixture into the hot milk mixture, and continue to cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool to lukewarm.
Whisk about 1 cup of the cooked milk-egg mixture into the quince puree. Finally, whisk this mixture into the remaining milk-egg mixture, and then whisk in the nutmeg and cloves.
Transfer to an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s directions. To serve, chop the reserved quince pieces and scatter them over the top.
Makes about 1 ½ quart.
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Georgeanne Brennan is a food journalist who lives on a farm in Northern California. Learn more at her website, georgeannebrennan.com.
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